Topical skin compositions for treating wrinkles

ABSTRACT

Disclosed is a method of treating a fine line or wrinkle in a person&#39;s skin. The method includes topically applying to the fine line or wrinkle a composition comprising an effective amount of Commiphora mukul resin or an extract thereof that includes oleo gum resin. Topical application of the composition to the fine line or wrinkle reduces the appearance of the fine line or wrinkle.

CROSS REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATIONS

This application is a continuation of U.S. application Ser. No.16/246,029, filed Jan. 11, 2019, which is a continuation of U.S.application Ser. No. 15/800,978 (issued as U.S. Pat. No. 10,213,337),filed Nov. 1, 2017, which is a divisional of U.S. application Ser. No.15/461,210, filed Mar. 16, 2017 (issued as U.S. Pat. No. 9,833,404),which is a continuation of U.S. application Ser. No. 14/461,088 (issuedas U.S. Pat. No. 9,642,793), filed Aug. 15, 2014, which claims thebenefit of U.S. Provisional Application No. 61/866,403, filed Aug. 15,2013. The contents of the referenced applications are incorporated intothe present application by reference.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION A. Field of the Invention

The present invention generally relates to compositions that can be usedto improve the skin's visual appearance. In particular, a compositionhas been discovered that works well in immediately reducing theappearance of wrinkles (e.g., fine lines or deep wrinkles) by filling inthe wrinkles while simultaneously treating the underlying causes ofwrinkle development. The composition includes the following combinationof ingredients that provides ornithine, retinol, and Commiphora mukulresin or an extract thereof.

B. Description of Related Art

With ageing, chronic exposure to adverse environmental factors, ormalnutrition, the visual appearance, physical properties, andphysiological functions of skin can change in ways that are consideredvisually undesirable. The most notable and obvious changes include thedevelopment of fine lines and wrinkles, loss of elasticity, increasedsagging, loss of firmness, loss of color evenness or tone, coarsesurface texture, and mottled pigmentation.

The appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, particularly those on theface and around the eyes, are one of the most prevalent and undesirablesigns of aging. Several treatment options have been developed, most ofwhich involve hiding the wrinkles (e.g., colored foundations) or usingchemicals that inhibit neurotransmission in nerve cells (i.e., botulinumtoxin or Botox™). However, hiding wrinkles does not solve the underlyingproblem causing the appearance of wrinkles. As for chemicals such asbotulinum toxin, while such chemicals work to reduce the appearance ofwrinkles for a period of time, adverse side effects exist (e.g.,transient fatigue, dysphagia, neck weakness, hoarseness, and localizedpain).

A third avenue for treating fine lines and wrinkles is to actually treatthe underlying causes associated with the appearance of the fine linesor wrinkles. For instance, while there are numerous lotions and creamswhich purport to hydrate the skin, increase or maintain collagenproduction in skin cells, etc., so as to increase skin suppleness andreduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, the actual resultshave been disappointing.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

A discovery of a combination of ingredients has been made that works toreduce the appearance of wrinkles both immediately and over a period oftime. The combination of ingredients includes ornithine, retinol,Commiphora mukul resin or an extract thereof, and hyaluronic acid or asalt thereof (e.g., sodium hyaluronate). It was surprisingly found thattopically applying a composition having these ingredients to a wrinklereduces the appearance of said wrinkle immediately after application ofthe composition (e.g., within 180 seconds, preferably within 120seconds, most preferably within 60 seconds) and simultaneously increasesor stimulates adipogenesis in said skin, thereby treating wrinkles overtime. Without wishing to be bound by theory, it is believed thatCommiphora mukul resin provides a “filling” effect that fills thewrinkle creases and hyaluronic acid attracts water to the wrinkle,thereby reducing the appearance of a wrinkle immediately afterapplication to skin. Further, the combination of retinol and ornithinework to address the underlying causes of wrinkle formation, therebytreating the wrinkle over time to further reduce its appearance fromskin. It was further discovered that Commiphora mukul resin hasadipogenesis properties, which when combined with retinol and ornithine,further help to treat skin wrinkles over a prolonged period of time. Thecompositions of the present invention can reduce the appearance of, andsimultaneously treat, wrinkles in all six wrinkle zones (i.e., foreheadcreases, between-the-brow creases, crow's feet, smile lines, verticallip lines, and marionette lines). Still further, the composition can beformulated to dry to an invisible or transparent finish, therebydisappearing into the skin without flaking or balling up when othercompositions (e.g., foundation, sunscreen, moisturizer, etc.) areapplied onto the composition of the present invention.

In one embodiment, there is disclosed a topical skin compositioncomprising an effective amount of ornithine, retinol, and Commiphoramukul resin or an extract thereof to reduce the appearance of a wrinkleon skin. The composition can also include a dermatologically acceptablevehicle. In some aspects, the retinol and the Commiphora mukul resin oran extract thereof are each individually encapsulated or can both beencapsulated in the same capsule. The composition can be formulated asan emulsion (e.g., oil-in-water emulsion, a silicone-in-water emulsion,water-in-oil emulsion, water-in-silicone emulsion). The composition canbe a cream or a lotion. An effective amount of orinithine, retinol, andCommiphora mukul resin or an extract thereof can be 0.001 to 10% byweight of ornithine, 0.001 to 10% by weight of retinol, and 0.001 to 10%by weight of Commiphora mukul resin or an extract thereof or 0.01 to 5%by weight of ornithine, 0.01 to 5% by weight of retinol, and 0.01 to 5%by weight of Commiphora mukul resin or an extract thereof. Thedermatologically acceptable vehicle can include 30 to 40% wt. of waterand 25 to 35% wt. of a silicone polymer (e.g., dimethicone crosspolymersuch as dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer). Thedermatologically acceptable vehicle can further include 5 to 15% wt. ofan anti-caking agent or a combination of anti-caking agents, 10 to 20%wt. of a moisturizing agent or a combination of moisturizing agents, and1 to 10% wt. of a surfactant or a combination of surfactants. In oneaspect, the anti-caking agent can be HDI/Trimethylol HexyllactoneCrosspolymer, the combination of moisturizing agents can includeButyrospermum parkii, butylene glycol, and glycerin, and the combinationof surfactants can include cetearyl alcohol and C12-14 Pareth-12. Thecomposition can also include any one of, any combination of, or all ofthe following class of ingredients: a moisturization agent; a UVabsorbing agent; an anti-oxidant; a structuring agent; an emulsifier; asilicone containing compound; an essential oil; a thickening agent;and/or a preservative (the specification provides non-limiting examplesof these class of ingredients which are incorporated into this paragraphby reference). The Commiphora mukul resin or extract thereof can beincluded in an extract from Commiphora mukul. The composition canfurther include adenosine or sodium hyaluronate or both. In someinstances, the extract from Commiphora mukul may be an aqueous,alcoholic, hydro-alcoholic, or oil-based extract. The extract fromCommiphora mukul may be from the whole plant, leaf, seed, flower, stem,or root. In some embodiments, the Commiphora mukul extract is from aresinous sap produced by the plant. In some embodiments, the compositionis oil-free. In other embodiments, the composition contains an oil. Insome embodiments, the composition is fragrance free. In otherembodiments, the composition includes a fragrance. In some embodiments,the composition is formulated for sensitive skin. In some aspects, thecomposition can include ornithine, retinol, Commiphora mukul resin,dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, HDI/trimethylol hexyllactonecrosspolymer, Butyrospermum parkii, butylene glycol, glycerin, cetearylalcohol, C12-14 pareth-12, and water.

In another embodiment there is disclosed methods for reducing theappearance of wrinkles or improving the texture of skin in a targetregion of skin that has wrinkles, or otherwise rough or uneven skintexture, the method comprising topically applying a composition to saidtarget region that includes an effective amount of ornithine, retinol,and Commiphora mukul resin or an extract thereof, wherein topicalapplication of the composition reduces the appearance of wrinkles orimproves the texture or tone of skin in said target region. In someembodiments, the method further comprises increasing the skin firmnessor elasticity in said target region. In some embodiments, the methodcomprises decreasing skin roughness. In some embodiments, the methodcomprises increasing synthesis of extracellular matrix proteins (e.g.,collagen, elastin, and hyaluronic acid) and proteins localized in thedermal-epidermal junction (e.g., laminin and fibronectin) of the skin.In some embodiments, the method comprises increasing the generation rateor number of adipocytes. In some embodiments, the method comprisesincreasing the rate of skin renewal. In some embodiments, the methodcomprises reducing an oily skin condition, e.g., reducing or inhibitingsebum secretion from the sebaceous glands. In some embodiments, themethod comprises protecting the skin from free radical damage ordecreasing the level of free radicals in the skin. In some embodiments,the method comprises reducing inflammation in the skin.

In yet another aspect, there is disclosed a method of increasing orstimulating adipogenesis in skin in need thereof comprising topicallyapplying any one of the aforementioned compositions to skin, whereintopical application of said composition increases or stimulatesadipogenesis in said skin. The composition can be applied to a wrinkleor to skin having a rough surface.

In particular aspects, this combination of ingredients can be applied toskin located on the neck and/or face. In particular aspects, thiscombination of ingredients can be applied to skin located in theperiorbital region of the face (e.g., skin around and under the eyes).In certain embodiments, a composition having this combination ofingredients is formulated as a cream or lotion or emulsion. In certainembodiments, a composition having this combination of ingredients isformulated as a serum.

The composition can include 0.0001 to 10% by weight (or 0.001, 0.01,0.1, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 8, 9, or 10% by weight or more) of Commiphoramukul extract, 0.0001 to 10% by weight of retinol (or 0.001, 0.01, 0.1,1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 8, 9, or 10% by weight or more), 0.0001 to 10% byweight of ornithine (or 0.001, 0.01, 0.1, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 8, 9, or 10%by weight or more), 0.0001 to 10% by weight of adenosine (or 0.001,0.01, 0.1, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 8, 9, or 10% by weight or more), and/or0.0001 to 10% by weight of sodium hyaluronate (or 0.001, 0.01, 0.1, 1,2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 8, 9, or 10% by weight or more). In some embodiments, thecomposition may include 20 to 40% by weight of dimethicone/vinyldimethicone crosspolymer; 5 to 15% by weight of HDI/trimethylolhexyllactone crosspolymer; 5 to 15% by weight of Butyrospermum parkii; 2to 8% by weight of butylene glycol; 0.5 to 2% by weight of glycerin; 0.5to 2% by weight of cetearyl alcohol; 0.5 to 2% by weight of C12-14pareth-12; and 20 to 50% by weight of water.

In certain aspects, the composition is applied to the skin and remainson the skin for at least 5, 10, 15, 30, or more minutes, or 1, 4, 8, 12,16, 20, or 24 hours after topical application. The composition can beapplied to leg skin, arm skin, torso skin, or skin in the pelvic region.

The compositions of the present invention can be formulated into topicalskin care compositions. The compositions can be cosmetic compositions.In other aspects, the compositions can be included in a cosmeticvehicle. Non-limiting examples of cosmetic vehicles are disclosed inother sections of this specification and are known to those of skill inthe art. Examples of cosmetic vehicles include emulsions (e.g.,oil-in-water and water-in-oil emulsions), creams, lotions, solutions(e.g., aqueous or hydro-alcoholic solutions), anhydrous bases (e.g.,lipstick or a powder), gels, and ointments. In certain aspects, thecomposition can be formulated as a cream, gel, lotion, serum, orcleanser. In some instances, the composition is an emulsion (e.g.,oil-in-water, water-in-oil, hydrophilic-in-hydrophobic,hydrophobic-in-hydrophilic, silicone-in-water, water-in-silicone, etc.).

The compositions can also be formulated for topical skin application atleast 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, or more times a day during use. In otheraspects of the present invention, compositions can be storage stable orcolor stable, or both. It is also contemplated that the viscosity of thecomposition can be selected to achieve a desired result (e.g., dependingon the type of composition desired, the viscosity of such compositioncan be from about 1 cps to well over 1 million cps or any range orinteger derivable therein (e.g., 2 cps, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 20, 30,40, 50, 60, 70, 80, 90, 100, 200, 300, 400, 500, 600, 700, 800, 900,1000, 2000, 3000, 4000, 5000, 6000, 7000, 8000, 9000, 10000, 20000,30000, 40000, 50000, 60000, 70000, 80000, 90000, 100000, 200000, 300000,400000, 500000, 600000, 700000, 800000, 900000, 1000000 cps, etc., asmeasured on a Brookfield Viscometer using a TC spindle at 2.5 rpm at 25°C.). The compositions in non-limiting aspects can have a pH of about 6to about 9. In other aspects, the pH can be 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9,10, 11, 12, 13, or 14. Compositions of the present invention can haveUVA and UVB absorption properties. The compositions can have an sunprotection factor (SPF) of 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14,15, 20, 25, 30, 35, 40, 45, 50, 55, 60, or more, or any integer orderivative therein. The compositions can be sunscreen lotions, sprays,or creams. In particular aspects, the compositions can be oil-free,substantially anhydrous, and/or anhydrous. Other aspects includecompositions having water.

The compositions of the present invention can also include any one of,any combination of, or all of the following additional ingredients:water, a chelating agent, a moisturizing agent, UV absorption agent, apreservative, a thickening agent, a silicone containing compound, anessential oil, a structuring agent, a vitamin, one or more emulsifiers,a pharmaceutical ingredient, or an antioxidant, or any combination ofsuch ingredients or mixtures of such ingredients. In certain aspects,the composition can include at least two, three, four, five, six, seven,eight, nine, ten, or all of these additional ingredients identified inthe previous sentence. Non-limiting examples of these additionalingredients are identified throughout this specification and areincorporated into this section by reference. The amounts of suchingredients can range from 0.0001% to 99.9% by weight or volume of thecomposition, or any integer or range in between as disclosed in othersections of this specification, which are incorporated into thisparagraph by reference.

In some embodiments, reducing the appearance of fine lines or wrinkles,improving skin tone evenness, or improving the texture of skin in atarget region is determined by comparison of the skin in the targetregion that has fine lines, wrinkles, uneven skin tone, or rough skintexture prior to application of the composition to the skin in thetarget region after application of the product. In some embodiments, theskin in the target region is evaluated 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, or 7 days, 2,3, 4, or 5 weeks, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, or 12 months, or anyrange therein, after the first application of the composition. In someembodiments, the composition is applied daily, weekly, or monthly. Insome embodiments, the composition is applied 1, 2, 3, 4, or more timesdaily. Such comparisons can also be made for the other properties asdescribed herein which can also be impacted by application of thedescribed composition. In addition, the assays described herein can beused to evaluate a particular property at the target region.

The compositions of the present invention can also be modified to have adesired oxygen radical absorbance capacity (ORAC) value. In certainnon-limiting aspects, the compositions of the present invention or theplant extracts identified throughout this specification can be modifiedto have an ORAC value per mg of at least about 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8,9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26,27, 28, 29, 30, 35, 40, 45, 50, 55, 60, 70, 80, 90, 95, 100, 200, 300,400, 500, 600, 700, 800, 900, 1000, 2000, 3000, 4000, 5000, 6000, 7000,8000, 9000, 10000, 15000, 20000, 30000, 50000, 100000 or more or anyrange derivable therein.

Additionally, the compositions can also be used to treat or prevent avariety of other skin conditions. For instance, the composition can beused to treat oily skin, e.g., by inhibiting or reducing sebumsecretions. In another instance, the compositions can be used to treat,prevent or inhibit erythema, sensitive skin, or inflamed skin. Inparticular aspects, erythema, sensitive skin, or inflamed skin is causedby skin sunburn, electrical treatments of skin, skin burns, contactallergies, systemic allergies, skin toxicity, exercise, insect stings,bacterial infection, viral infection, fungal infection, protozoainfection, massage, or windburn. In other aspects, the followingadditional skin conditions can be treated or inhibited in accordancewith the methods and compositions disclosed throughout the specificationand claims: pruritus, lentigo, spider veins, age spots, senile purpura,keratosis, melasma, blotches, nodules, sun damaged skin, dermatitis(including, but not limited to seborrheic dermatitis, nummulardermatitis, contact dermatitis, atopic dermatitis, exfoliativedermatitis, perioral dermatitis, and stasis dermatitis), psoriasis,folliculitis, rosacea, acne, impetigo, erysipelas, erythrasma, eczema,and other inflammatory skin conditions. In certain non-limiting aspects,the skin condition can be caused by exposure to UV light, age,irradiation, chronic sun exposure, environmental pollutants, airpollution, wind, cold, heat, chemicals, disease pathologies, smoking, orlack of nutrition. The skin can be facial skin or non-facial skin (e.g.,arms, legs, hands, chest, back, feet, etc.). The method can furthercomprise identifying a person in need of skin treatment. The person canbe a male or female. The age of the person can be at least 1, 2, 3, 4,5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 15, 20, 25, 30, 35, 40, 45, 50, 55, 60, 65, 70, 75,80, 85, 90, 95, or more years old, or any range derivable therein. Themethod can also include topically applying an amount effective to:increase the stratum corneum turnover rate of the skin; increasecollagen synthesis in fibroblasts; increase cellular anti-oxidantdefense mechanisms (e.g., exogenous additions of anti-oxidants canbolster, replenish, or prevent the loss of cellular antioxidants such ascatalase and glutathione in skin cells (e.g., keratinocytes,melanocytes, langerhans cells, etc.) which will reduce or preventoxidative damage to the skin, cellular, proteins, and lipids); inhibitmelanin production in melanocytes; reduce or inhibit oxidative damage toskin (including reducing the amount lipid peroxides and/or proteinoxidation in the skin).

In another aspect, there is a method of treating uneven skin tone suchas skin having an uneven color caused by hyperpigmentation, melasma, anage spot, a brown spot, or a freckle by applying any one of theaforementioned compositions to skin in need thereof. The skin conditioncan be hyperpigmentation or melasma. There is also disclosed a method oflightening, whitening, or brightening skin comprising topically applyingto skin in need thereof any one of the aforementioned composition,wherein topical application of said composition lightens, whitens, orbrightens skin. The composition can be applied to skin having an unevencolor, hyperpigmented skin, melasmic skin, an age spot, a brown spot, ora freckle.

Also contemplated are kits that include any one of the compositionsdisclosed throughout the specification and claims. In certainembodiments, the composition is comprised in a container. The containercan be a bottle, dispenser, or package. The container can dispense apre-determined amount of the composition. In certain aspects, thecompositions is dispensed in a spray, dollop, or liquid. The containercan include indicia on its surface. The indicia can be a word, anabbreviation, a picture, or a symbol.

Also contemplated is a product comprising a composition of the presentinvention. In non-limiting aspects, the product can be a cosmeticproduct. The cosmetic product can be those described in other sectionsof this specification or those known to a person of skill in the art.Non-limiting examples of products include a moisturizer, a cream, alotion, a skin softener, a foundation, a night cream, a lipstick, acleanser, a toner, a sunscreen, a mask, or an anti-aging product.

The term “wrinkle” or “wrinkling” refers to both fine wrinkling andcoarse wrinkling. Fine wrinkling or fine lines refers to superficiallines and wrinkles on the skin surface. Coarse wrinkling refers to deepfurrows, particularly deep lines/wrinkles on the face and around theeyes, including expression lines such as frown lines and wrinkles,forehead lines and wrinkles, crow's feet lines and wrinkles, nasolabialfold and marionette lines and wrinkles. Forehead lines and wrinklesrefer to superficial lines and/or deep furrows on skin of the forehead.Crow's feet lines and wrinkles refer to superficial lines and/or deepfurrows on skin around the eye area. Marionette lines and wrinkles referto superficial lines and/or deep furrows on skin around the mouth.Wrinkles can be assessed for number, length, and depth of the lines.

The compositions and methods for their use can “comprise,” “consistessentially of,” or “consist of” any of the ingredients disclosedthroughout the specification. As used in this specification andclaim(s), the words “comprising” (and any form of comprising, such as“comprise” and “comprises”), “having” (and any form of having, such as“have” and “has”), “including” (and any form of including, such as“includes” and “include”) or “containing” (and any form of containing,such as “contains” and “contain”) are inclusive or open-ended and do notexclude additional, unrecited elements or method steps.

“Consisting essentially of” means that inclusion of additionalingredients in the compositions do not materially affect the beneficialproperties of the compositions as compositions for reducing theappearance of cellulite and improving skin texture. For instance, if acomposition “consists essentially of” any one of, any combination of, or2 or 3 of ornithine, retinol, and Commiphora mukul resin or an extractthereof or an extract comprising said resin, said composition excludesany ingredients that would materially affect the beneficial propertiesof the compositions for reducing the appearance of fine lines andwrinkles and improving skin texture.

It is contemplated that any embodiment discussed in this specificationcan be implemented with respect to any method or composition of theinvention, and vice versa. Furthermore, compositions of the inventioncan be used to achieve methods of the invention.

In one embodiment, compositions of the present invention can bepharmaceutically or cosmetically elegant. “Pharmaceutically elegant”and/or “cosmetically elegant” describes a composition that hasparticular tactile properties which feel pleasant on the skin (e.g.,compositions that are not too watery or greasy, compositions that have asilky texture, compositions that are non-tacky or sticky, etc.).Pharmaceutically or cosmetically elegant can also relate to thecreaminess or lubricity properties of the composition or to the moistureretaining properties of the composition.

“Topical application” means to apply or spread a composition onto thesurface of keratinous tissue. “Topical skin composition” includescompositions suitable for topical application on keratinous tissue. Suchcompositions are typically dermatologically-acceptable in that they donot have undue toxicity, incompatibility, instability, allergicresponse, and the like, when applied to skin. Topical skin carecompositions of the present invention can have a selected viscosity toavoid significant dripping or pooling after application to skin.

“Keratinous tissue” includes keratin-containing layers disposed as theoutermost protective covering of mammals and includes, but is notlimited to, skin, hair and nails.

The term “about” or “approximately” are defined as being close to asunderstood by one of ordinary skill in the art, and in one non-limitingembodiment the terms are defined to be within 10%, preferably within 5%,more preferably within 1%, and most preferably within 0.5%.

The term “substantially” and its variations are defined as being largelybut not necessarily wholly what is specified as understood by one ofordinary skill in the art, and in one non-limiting embodimentsubstantially refers to ranges within 10%, within 5%, within 1%, orwithin 0.5%.

The terms “inhibiting,” “reducing,” “treating,” or any variation ofthese terms, when used in the claims and/or the specification includesany measurable decrease or complete inhibition to achieve a desiredresult.

The term “effective,” as that term is used in the specification and/orclaims, means adequate to accomplish a desired, expected, or intendedresult.

Other objects, features and advantages of the present invention willbecome apparent from the following detailed description. It should beunderstood, however, that the detailed description and the examples,while indicating specific embodiments of the invention, are given by wayof illustration only. Additionally, it is contemplated that changes andmodifications within the spirit and scope of the invention will becomeapparent to those skilled in the art from this detailed description.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

FIG. 1 Results of the lipid accumulation assay analyzing the averageglycerol and the percentage of treatment.

FIG. 2 Results of the lipid accumulation assay.

DESCRIPTION OF ILLUSTRATIVE EMBODIMENTS

A combination of ingredients have been found to synergistically treatwrinkles both immediately and over a prolonged period of time. Withoutwishing to be bound by theory, it is believed that each of theingredients (i.e., ornithine, retinol, Commiphora mukul resin or anextract thereof, and hyaluronic acid or a salt thereof) work to bothimmediately fill and treat skin wrinkles, thereby providing the userwith immediate results (i.e., the appearance of wrinkles are reduced)and more long-lasting results (i.e., actual treatment of wrinkles toreduce or remove the wrinkle from the skin). Further, a dermatologicallyacceptable vehicle was also discovered that provides a stableenvironment for the active ingredients while also providing a pleasanttactile property when applied to skin. The vehicle is also capable ofdrying on the skin and “disappearing” into the skin via thecomposition's color going from an opaque color to a more translucent ortransparent appearance after being applied to the skin.

These and other non-limiting aspects of the present invention aredescribed in further detail below.

A. Active Ingredients

Commiphora mukul resin is an Oleo gum resin secreted by Commiphoramukul, also known as gum guggul. Commiphora mukul is a short thornyshrub in the family Burseraceae that is native to the Indiansubcontinent. Commiphora mukul resin can be extracted from the bark ofCommiphora mukul. The resin can include a mixture of gum, minerals,essential oils, terpenes, sterols, ferrulates, flavanones and sterones.Commiphora mukul resin is commercially available from a range of sources(see, e.g., International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook,12^(th) Edition, 2008 (“CTFA”), Volume 1 page 660, which is incorporatedby reference). The Commiphora mukul resin used in the Examples wasobtained from Soliance (France) sold under the trade name Redens'In,which is encapsulated resin. The capsule also includes hyaluronic acid.

Hyaluronic acid (which includes salts thereof) is an is an anionic,nonsulfated glycosaminoglycan distributed widely throughout connective,epithelial, and neural tissues. It is unique among glycosaminoglycans inthat it is nonsulfated, forms in the plasma membrane instead of theGolgi, and can be very large, with its molecular weight often reachingthe millions. It has the following generic structure:

Retinol is a form of vitamin A. It is a diterpenoid and an alcohol. Ithas the formula:

It is available from a wide range of sources (see, e.g., CTFA, Volume 2,page 2363, which is incorporated by reference). Other forms of vitamin Acan also be used in the alternative or in addition to retinol. Forexample, compositions of the present invention can comprise tretinoin.The retinol used in the Examples was obtained from Tagra BiotechnologiesLtd. (Israel) sold under the trade name Tagravit™ R, which isencapsulated retinol.

Ornithine (2,5-diaminopentanoic acid) is an amino acid with thefollowing formula:

It is available from a wide range of sources (see, e.g., CTFA, Volume 2,page 1738, which is incorporated by reference). The ornithine used inthe Examples was obtained from using Lucas Meyer Cosmetics (USA) underthe trade name Adipofill'in.

B. Dermatologically Acceptable Vehicle

A dermatologically acceptable vehicle has been identified as beingparticularly useful in stabilizing the active ingredients noted abovewhile also providing a pleasant tactile property when applied to orspread on the skin. The vehicle has also been shown to visibly“disappear” from the skin by converting from an opaque formulation to atranslucent or transparent formulation upon topical application anddrying on the skin (e.g., within about 180 second after topicalapplication to skin). The vehicle is a silicone in water emulsion having30 to 40% wt. of water, 25 to 35% wt. of a silicone containing compound(e.g., a silicone polymer such as a dimethicone crosspolymer such asdimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer), 5 to 15% wt. of ananti-caking agent or a combination of anti-caking agents (e.g.,HDI/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer), 10 to 20% wt. of amoisturizing agent or a combination of moisturizing agents (e.g.,Butyrospermum parkii, butylene glycol, and glycerin, and the combinationof surfactants includes cetearyl alcohol and C12-14 Pareth-12), and 1 to10% wt. of a surfactant or a combination of surfactants (e.g., cetearylalcohol and C12-14 Pareth-12).

C. Amounts of Ingredients

It is contemplated that the compositions of the present invention caninclude any of the actives or any combination thereof describedthroughout this specification. In particular aspects, the actives can becombined (e.g., ornithine, retinol, and Commiphora mukul resin or anextract thereof). The compositions can include any number ofcombinations of additional ingredients described throughout thisspecification. The concentrations of the any ingredient within thecompositions can vary. In non-limiting embodiments, for example, thecompositions can comprise, consisting essentially of, or consist of, intheir final form, for example, at least about 0.0001%, 0.0002%, 0.0003%,0.0004%, 0.0005%, 0.0006%, 0.0007%, 0.0008%, 0.0009%, 0.0010%, 0.0011%,0.0012%, 0.0013%, 0.0014%, 0.0015%, 0.0016%, 0.0017%, 0.0018%, 0.0019%,0.0020%, 0.0021%, 0.0022%, 0.0023%, 0.0024%, 0.0025%, 0.0026%, 0.0027%,0.0028%, 0.0029%, 0.0030%, 0.0031%, 0.0032%, 0.0033%, 0.0034%, 0.0035%,0.0036%, 0.0037%, 0.0038%, 0.0039%, 0.0040%, 0.0041%, 0.0042%, 0.0043%,0.0044%, 0.0045%, 0.0046%, 0.0047%, 0.0048%, 0.0049%, 0.0050%, 0.0051%,0.0052%, 0.0053%, 0.0054%, 0.0055%, 0.0056%, 0.0057%, 0.0058%, 0.0059%,0.0060%, 0.0061%, 0.0062%, 0.0063%, 0.0064%, 0.0065%, 0.0066%, 0.0067%,0.0068%, 0.0069%, 0.0070%, 0.0071%, 0.0072%, 0.0073%, 0.0074%, 0.0075%,0.0076%, 0.0077%, 0.0078%, 0.0079%, 0.0080%, 0.0081%, 0.0082%, 0.0083%,0.0084%, 0.0085%, 0.0086%, 0.0087%, 0.0088%, 0.0089%, 0.0090%, 0.0091%,0.0092%, 0.0093%, 0.0094%, 0.0095%, 0.0096%, 0.0097%, 0.0098%, 0.0099%,0.0100%, 0.0200%, 0.0250%, 0.0275%, 0.0300%, 0.0325%, 0.0350%, 0.0375%,0.0400%, 0.0425%, 0.0450%, 0.0475%, 0.0500%, 0.0525%, 0.0550%, 0.0575%,0.0600%, 0.0625%, 0.0650%, 0.0675%, 0.0700%, 0.0725%, 0.0750%, 0.0775%,0.0800%, 0.0825%, 0.0850%, 0.0875%, 0.0900%, 0.0925%, 0.0950%, 0.0975%,0.1000%, 0.1250%, 0.1500%, 0.1750%, 0.2000%, 0.2250%, 0.2500%, 0.2750%,0.3000%, 0.3250%, 0.3500%, 0.3750%, 0.4000%, 0.4250%, 0.4500%, 0.4750%,0.5000%, 0.5250%, 0.0550%, 0.5750%, 0.6000%, 0.6250%, 0.6500%, 0.6750%,0.7000%, 0.7250%, 0.7500%, 0.7750%, 0.8000%, 0.8250%, 0.8500%, 0.8750%,0.9000%, 0.9250%, 0.9500%, 0.9750%, 1.0%, 1.1%, 1.2%, 1.3%, 1.4%, 1.5%,1.6%, 1.7%, 1.8%, 1.9%, 2.0%, 2.1%, 2.2%, 2.3%, 2.4%, 2.5%, 2.6%, 2.7%,2.8%, 2.9%, 3.0%, 3.1%, 3.2%, 3.3%, 3.4%, 3.5%, 3.6%, 3.7%, 3.8%, 3.9%,4.0%, 4.1%, 4.2%, 4.3%, 4.4%, 4.5%, 4.6%, 4.7%, 4.8%, 4.9%, 5.0%, 5.1%,5.2%, 5.3%, 5.4%, 5.5%, 5.6%, 5.7%, 5.8%, 5.9%, 6.0%, 6.1%, 6.2%, 6.3%,6.4%, 6.5%, 6.6%, 6.7%, 6.8%, 6.9%, 7.0%, 7.1%, 7.2%, 7.3%, 7.4%, 7.5%,7.6%, 7.7%, 7.8%, 7.9%, 8.0%, 8.1%, 8.2%, 8.3%, 8.4%, 8.5%, 8.6%, 8.7%,8.8%, 8.9%, 9.0%, 9.1%, 9.2%, 9.3%, 9.4%, 9.5%, 9.6%, 9.7%, 9.8%, 9.9%,10%, 11%, 12%, 13%, 14%, 15%, 16%, 17%, 18%, 19%, 20%, 21%, 22%, 23%,24%, 25%, 26%, 27%, 28%, 29%, 30%, 35%, 40%, 45%, 50%, 60%, 65%, 70%,75%, 80%, 85%, 90%, 95%, or 99% or any range derivable therein, of atleast one of the ingredients that are mentioned throughout thespecification and claims. In non-limiting aspects, the percentage can becalculated by weight or volume of the total composition. A person ofordinary skill in the art would understand that the concentrations canvary depending on the addition, substitution, and/or subtraction ofingredients in a given composition.

The disclosed compositions of the present invention may also includevarious antioxidants to retard oxidation of one or more components.Additionally, the prevention of the action of microorganisms can bebrought about by preservatives such as various antibacterial andantifungal agents, including but not limited to parabens (e.g.,methylparabens, propylparabens), chlorobutanol, phenol, sorbic acid,benzoic acid, thimerosal or combinations thereof. In some embodiments,the compositions do not contain parabens.

D. Formulations

The compositions of the present invention can be incorporated into alltypes of formulations. Non-limiting examples of suitable formulationsinclude emulsions (e.g., water-in-oil, water-in-oil-in-water,oil-in-water, silicone-in-water, water-in-silicone, oil-in-water-in-oil,oil-in-water-in-silicone emulsions), creams, lotions, solutions (bothaqueous and hydro-alcoholic), anhydrous bases (such as lipsticks andpowders), gels, and ointments or by other method or any combination ofthe forgoing as would be known to one of ordinary skill in the art(Remington's, 1990). Variations and other appropriate formulations willbe apparent to the skilled artisan and are appropriate for use in thepresent invention. In certain aspects, it is important that theconcentrations and combinations of the compounds, ingredients, andagents be selected in such a way that the combinations are chemicallycompatible and do not form complexes which precipitate from the finishedproduct.

It is also contemplated that ingredients identified throughout thisspecification, including but not limited to ornithine, retinol, andCommiphora mukul resin or an extract thereof, or any combinationsthereof, can be individually or combinatorially encapsulated fordelivery to a target area such as skin. Non-limiting examples ofencapsulation techniques include the use of liposomes, vesicles, and/ornanoparticles (e.g., biodegradable and non-biodegradable colloidalparticles comprising polymeric materials in which the ingredient istrapped, encapsulated, and/or absorbed—examples include nanospheres andnanocapsules) that can be used as delivery vehicles to deliver theingredient to skin (see, e.g., U.S. Pat. Nos. 6,387,398; 6,203,802;5,411,744; Kreuter 1998). In particular embodiments, the Commiphoramukul resin or extract thereof is encapsulated. In some embodiments,Commiphora mukul resin or extract thereof is encapsulated with sodiumhyaluronate. In other embodiments, the retinol is encapsulated. Infurther embodiments, both Commiphora mukul resin or extract thereof andthe retinol are encapsulated, but encapsulated separately.

E. Cosmetic Products and Articles of Manufacture

The composition of the present invention can also be used in manycosmetic products including, but not limited to, sunscreen products,sunless skin tanning products, hair products, finger nail products,moisturizing creams, skin benefit creams and lotions, softeners, daylotions, gels, ointments, foundations, night creams, lipsticks,cleansers, toners, masks, or other known cosmetic products orapplications. Additionally, the cosmetic products can be formulated asleave-on or rinse-off products. In certain aspects, the compositions ofthe present invention are stand-alone products.

F. Additional Ingredients

In addition to the ornithine, retinol, adenosine, and Commiphora mukulresin or extract thereof, ingredients disclosed throughout thisspecification, compositions of the present invention can includeadditional ingredients such as cosmetic ingredients and pharmaceuticalactive ingredients. Non-limiting examples of these additionalingredients are described in the following subsections.

1. Cosmetic Ingredients

The CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook (2004and 2008) describes a wide variety of non-limiting cosmetic ingredientsthat can be used in the context of the present invention. Examples ofthese ingredient classes include: fragrances (artificial and natural),dyes and color ingredients (e.g., Blue 1, Blue 1 Lake, Red 40, titaniumdioxide, D&C blue no. 4, D&C green no. 5, D&C orange no. 4, D&C red no.17, D&C red no. 33, D&C violet no. 2, D&C yellow no. 10, and D&C yellowno. 11), adsorbents, lubricants, solvents, moisturizers (including,e.g., emollients, humectants, film formers, occlusive agents, and agentsthat affect the natural moisturization mechanisms of the skin),water-repellants, UV absorbers (physical and chemical absorbers such aspara-aminobenzoic acid (“PABA”) and corresponding PABA derivatives,titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, etc.), essential oils, vitamins (e.g. A,B, C, D, E, and K), trace metals (e.g. zinc, calcium and selenium),anti-irritants (e.g. steroids and non-steroidal anti-inflammatories),botanical extracts (e.g. aloe vera, chamomile, cucumber extract, Ginkgobiloba, ginseng, and rosemary), anti-microbial agents, antioxidants(e.g., BHT and tocopherol), chelating agents (e.g., disodium EDTA andtetrasodium EDTA), preservatives (e.g., methylparaben andpropylparaben), pH adjusters (e.g., sodium hydroxide and citric acid),absorbents (e.g., aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, kaolin, corn starch,oat starch, cyclodextrin, talc, and zeolite), skin bleaching andlightening agents (e.g., hydroquinone and niacinamide lactate),humectants (e.g., sorbitol, urea, and manitol), exfoliants,waterproofing agents (e.g., magnesium/aluminum hydroxide stearate), skinconditioning agents (e.g., aloe extracts, allantoin, bisabolol,ceramides, dimethicone, hyaluronic acid, and dipotassium glycyrrhizate).Non-limiting examples of some of these ingredients are provided in thefollowing subsections.

a. UV Absorption Agents

UV absorption agents that can be used in combination with thecompositions of the present invention include chemical and physicalsunblocks. Non-limiting examples of chemical sunblocks that can be usedinclude para-aminobenzoic acid (PABA), PABA esters (glyceryl PABA,amyldimethyl PABA and octyldimethyl PABA), butyl PABA, ethyl PABA, ethyldihydroxypropyl PABA, benzophenones (oxybenzone, sulisobenzone,benzophenone, and benzophenone-1 through 12), cinnamates (octylmethoxycinnamate, isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate, octylmethoxy cinnamate,cinoxate, diisopropyl methyl cinnamate, DEA-methoxycinnamate, ethyldiisopropylcinnamate, glyceryl octanoate dimethoxycinnamate and ethylmethoxycinnamate), cinnamate esters, salicylates (homomethyl salicylate,benzyl salicylate, glycol salicylate, isopropylbenzyl salicylate, etc.),anthranilates, ethyl urocanate, homosalate, octisalate, dibenzoylmethanederivatives (e.g., avobenzone), octocrylene, octyl triazone, digalloytrioleate, glyceryl aminobenzoate, lawsone with dihydroxyacetone,ethylhexyl triazone, dioctyl butamido triazone, benzylidene malonatepolysiloxane, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, disodium phenyldibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexylbenzoate, bis diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl benzoate, bisbenzoxazoylphenyl ethylhexylimino triazine, drometrizole trisiloxane,methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutyiphenol, andbis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyltriazine,4-methylbenzylidenecamphor, and isopentyl 4-methoxycinnamate.Non-limiting examples of physical sunblocks include, kaolin, talc,petrolatum and metal oxides (e.g., titanium dioxide and zinc oxide).

b. Moisturizing Agents

Non-limiting examples of moisturizing agents that can be used with thecompositions of the present invention include additional amino acids,chondroitin sulfate, diglycerin, erythritol, fructose, glucose,glycerin, glycerol polymers, glycol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, honey,hyaluronic acid, hydrogenated honey, hydrogenated starch hydrolysate,inositol, lactitol, maltitol, maltose, mannitol, natural moisturizingfactor, PEG-15 butanediol, polyglyceryl sorbitol, salts of pyrollidonecarboxylic acid, potassium PCA, propylene glycol, sodium glucuronate,sodium PCA, sorbitol, sucrose, trehalose, urea, and xylitol.

Other examples include acetylated lanolin, acetylated lanolin alcohol,alanine, algae extract, aloe barbadensis, aloe-barbadensis extract, aloebarbadensis gel, althea officinalis extract, apricot (Prunus armeniaca)kernel oil, arginine, arginine aspartate, Arnica montana extract,aspartic acid, avocado (Persea gratissima) oil, barrier sphingolipids,butyl alcohol, beeswax, behenyl alcohol, beta-sitosterol, birch (Betulaalba) bark extract, borage (Borago officinalis) extract, butcherbroom(Ruscus aculeatus) extract, butylene glycol, Calendula officinalisextract, Calendula officinalis oil, candelilla (Euphorbia cerifera) wax,canola oil, caprylic/capric triglyceride, cardamon (Elettariacardamomum) oil, carnauba (Copernicia cerifera) wax, carrot (Daucuscarota sativa) oil, castor (Ricinus communis) oil, ceramides, ceresin,ceteareth-5, ceteareth-12, ceteareth-20, cetearyl octanoate, ceteth-20,ceteth-24, cetyl acetate, cetyl octanoate, cetyl palmitate, chamomile(Anthemis nobilis) oil, cholesterol, cholesterol esters, cholesterylhydroxystearate, citric acid, clary (Salvia sclarea) oil, cocoa(Theobroma cacao) butter, coco-caprylate/caprate, coconut (Cocosnucifera) oil, collagen, collagen amino acids, corn (Zea mays)oil, fattyacids, decyl oleate, dimethicone copolyol, dimethiconol, dioctyladipate, dioctyl succinate, dipentaerythrityl hexacaprylate/hexacaprate,DNA, erythritol, ethoxydiglycol, ethyl linoleate, Eucalyptus globulusoil, evening primrose (Oenothera biennis) oil, fatty acids, geraniummaculatum oil, glucosamine, glucose glutamate, glutamic acid,glycereth-26, glycerin, glycerol, glyceryl distearate, glycerylhydroxystearate, glyceryl laurate, glyceryl linoleate, glycerylmyristate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate SE,glycine, glycol stearate, glycol stearate SE, glycosaminoglycans, grape(Vitis vinifera) seed oil, hazel (Corylus americana) nut oil, hazel(Corylus avellana) nut oil, hexylene glycol, hyaluronic acid, hybridsafflower (Carthamus tinctorius) oil, hydrogenated castor oil,hydrogenated coco-glycerides, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenatedlanolin, hydrogenated lecithin, hydrogenated palm glyceride,hydrogenated palm kernel oil, hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenatedtallow glyceride, hydrogenated vegetable oil, hydrolyzed collagen,hydrolyzed elastin, hydrolyzed glycosaminoglycans, hydrolyzed keratin,hydrolyzed soy protein, hydroxylated lanolin, hydroxyproline, isocetylstearate, isocetyl stearoyl stearate, isodecyl oleate, isopropylisostearate, isopropyl lanolate, isopropyl myristate, isopropylpalmitate, isopropyl stearate, isostearamide DEA, isostearic acid,isostearyl lactate, isostearyl neopentanoate, jasmine (Jasminumofficinale) oil, jojoba (Buxus chinensis) oil, kelp, kukui (Aleuritesmoluccana) nut oil, lactamide MEA, laneth-16, laneth-10 acetate,lanolin, lanolin acid, lanolin alcohol, lanolin oil, lanolin wax,lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) oil, lecithin, lemon (Citrus medicalimonum) oil, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, macadamia ternifolia nutoil, maltitol, matricaria (Chamomilla recutita) oil, methyl glucosesesquistearate, methylsilanol PCA, mineral oil, mink oil, mortierellaoil, myristyl lactate, myristyl myristate, myristyl propionate,neopentyl glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate, octyldodecanol, octyldodecylmyristate, octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate, octyl hydroxystearate, octylpalmitate, octyl salicylate, octyl stearate, oleic acid, olive (Oleaeuropaea) oil, orange (Citrus aurantium dulcis) oil, palm (Elaeisguineensis) oil, palmitic acid, pantethine, panthenol, panthenyl ethylether, paraffin, PCA, peach (Prunus persica) kernel oil, peanut (Arachishypogaea) oil, PEG-8 C12-18 ester, PEG-15 cocamine, PEG-150 distearate,PEG-60 glyceryl isostearate, PEG-5 glyceryl stearate, PEG-30 glycerylstearate, PEG-7 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil,PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate,PEG40 sorbitan peroleate, PEG-5 soy sterol, PEG-10 soy sterol, PEG-2stearate, PEG-8 stearate, PEG-20 stearate, PEG-32 stearate, PEG40stearate, PEG-50 stearate, PEG-100 stearate, PEG-150 stearate,pentadecalactone, peppermint (Mentha piperita) oil, petrolatum,phospholipids, polyamino sugar condensate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate,polyquaternium-24, polysorbate 20, polysorbate 40, polysorbate 60,polysorbate 80, polysorbate 85, potassium myristate, potassiumpalmitate, propylene glycol, propylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate,propylene glycol dioctanoate, propylene glycol dipelargonate, propyleneglycol laurate, propylene glycol stearate, propylene glycol stearate SE,PVP, pyridoxine dipalmitate, retinol, retinyl palmitate, rice (Oryzasativa) bran oil, RNA, rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) oil, rose oil,safflower (Carthamus tinctorius) oil, sage (Salvia officinalis) oil,sandalwood (Santalum album) oil, serine, serum protein, sesame (Sesamumindicum) oil, shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii), silk powder, sodiumchondroitin sulfate, sodium hyaluronate, sodium lactate, sodiumpalmitate, sodium PCA, sodium polyglutamate, soluble collagen, sorbitanlaurate, sorbitan oleate, sorbitan palmitate, sorbitan sesquioleate,sorbitan stearate, sorbitol, soybean (Glycine soja) oil, sphingolipids,squalane, squalene, stearamide MEA-stearate, stearic acid, stearoxydimethicone, stearoxytrimethylsilane, stearyl alcohol, stearylglycyrrhetinate, stearyl heptanoate, stearyl stearate, sunflower(Helianthus annuus) seed oil, sweet almond (Prunus amygdalus dulcis)oil, synthetic beeswax, tocopherol, tocopheryl acetate, tocopheryllinoleate, tribehenin, tridecyl neopentanoate, tridecyl stearate,triethanolamine, tristearin, urea, vegetable oil, water, waxes, wheat(Triticum vulgare) germ oil, and ylang ylang (Cananga odorata) oil.

c. Antioxidants

Non-limiting examples of antioxidants that can be used with thecompositions of the present invention include acetyl cysteine, ascorbicacid polypeptide, ascorbyl dipalmitate, ascorbyl methylsilanolpectinate, ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbyl stearate, BHA, BHT, t-butylhydroquinone, cysteine, cysteine HCl, diamylhydroquinone,di-t-butylhydroquinone, dicetyl thiodipropionate, dioleyl tocopherylmethylsilanol, disodium ascorbyl sulfate, distearyl thiodipropionate,ditridecyl thiodipropionate, dodecyl gallate, erythorbic acid, esters ofascorbic acid, ethyl ferulate, ferulic acid, gallic acid esters,hydroquinone, isooctyl thioglycolate, kojic acid, magnesium ascorbate,magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, methylsilanol ascorbate, natural botanicalanti-oxidants such as green tea or grape seed extracts,nordihydroguaiaretic acid, octyl gallate, phenylthioglycolic acid,potassium ascorbyl tocopheryl phosphate, potassium sulfite, propylgallate, quinones, rosmarinic acid, sodium ascorbate, sodium bisulfite,sodium erythorbate, sodium metabisulfite, sodium sulfite, superoxidedismutase, sodium thioglycolate, sorbityl furfural, thiodiglycol,thiodiglycolamide, thiodiglycolic acid, thioglycolic acid, thiolacticacid, thiosalicylic acid, tocophereth-5, tocophereth-10, tocophereth-12,tocophereth-18, tocophereth-50, tocopherol, tocophersolan, tocopherylacetate, tocopheryl linoleate, tocopheryl nicotinate, tocopherylsuccinate, and tris(nonylphenyl)phosphite.

d. Structuring Agents

In other non-limiting aspects, the compositions of the present inventioncan include a structuring agent. Structuring agent, in certain aspects,assist in providing rheological characteristics to the composition tocontribute to the composition's stability. In other aspects, structuringagents can also function as an emulsifier or surfactant. Non-limitingexamples of structuring agents include stearic acid, palmitic acid,stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, stearic acid, palmiticacid, the polyethylene glycol ether of stearyl alcohol having an averageof about 1 to about 21 ethylene oxide units, the polyethylene glycolether of cetyl alcohol having an average of about 1 to about 5 ethyleneoxide units, and mixtures thereof.

e. Emulsifiers

In certain aspects of the present invention, the compositions do notinclude an emulsifier. In other aspects, however, the compositions caninclude one or more emulsifiers. Emulsifiers can reduce the interfacialtension between phases and improve the formulation and stability of anemulsion. The emulsifiers can be nonionic, cationic, anionic, andzwitterionic emulsifiers (See McCutcheon's (1986); U.S. Pat. Nos.5,011,681; 4,421,769; 3,755,560). Non-limiting examples include estersof glycerin, esters of propylene glycol, fatty acid esters ofpolyethylene glycol, fatty acid esters of polypropylene glycol, estersof sorbitol, esters of sorbitan anhydrides, carboxylic acid copolymers,esters and ethers of glucose, ethoxylated ethers, ethoxylated alcohols,alkyl phosphates, polyoxyethylene fatty ether phosphates, fatty acidamides, acyl lactylates, soaps, TEA stearate, DEA oleth-3 phosphate,polyethylene glycol 20 sorbitan monolaurate (polysorbate 20),polyethylene glycol 5 soya sterol, steareth-2, steareth-20, steareth-21,ceteareth-20, PPG-2 methyl glucose ether distearate, ceteth-10,polysorbate 80, cetyl phosphate, potassium cetyl phosphate,diethanolamine cetyl phosphate, polysorbate 60, glyceryl stearate,PEG-100 stearate, and mixtures thereof.

f. Silicone Containing Compounds

In non-limiting aspects, silicone containing compounds include anymember of a family of polymeric products whose molecular backbone ismade up of alternating silicon and oxygen atoms with side groupsattached to the silicon atoms. By varying the —Si—O— chain lengths, sidegroups, and crosslinking, silicones can be synthesized into a widevariety of materials. They can vary in consistency from liquid to gel tosolids.

The silicone containing compounds that can be used in the context of thepresent invention include those described in this specification or thoseknown to a person of ordinary skill in the art. Non-limiting examplesinclude silicone oils (e.g., volatile and non-volatile oils), gels, andsolids. In certain aspects, the silicon containing compounds includes asilicone oils such as a polyorganosiloxane. Non-limiting examples ofpolyorganosiloxanes include dimethicone, cyclomethicone,polysilicone-11, phenyl trimethicone, trimethylsilylamodimethicone,stearoxytrimethylsilane, or mixtures of these and other organosiloxanematerials in any given ratio in order to achieve the desired consistencyand application characteristics depending upon the intended application(e.g., to a particular area such as the skin, hair, or eyes). A“volatile silicone oil” includes a silicone oil have a low heat ofvaporization, i.e. normally less than about 50 cal per gram of siliconeoil. Non-limiting examples of volatile silicone oils include:cyclomethicones such as Dow Corning 344 Fluid, Dow Corning 345 Fluid,Dow Corning 244 Fluid, and Dow Corning 245 Fluid, Volatile Silicon 7207(Union Carbide Corp., Danbury, Conn.); low viscosity dimethicones, i.e.dimethicones having a viscosity of about 50 cst or less (e.g.,dimethicones such as Dow Corning 200-0.5 cst Fluid). The Dow CorningFluids are available from Dow Corning Corporation, Midland, Mich.Cyclomethicone and dimethicone are described in the Third Edition of theCTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary (incorporated by reference) ascyclic dimethyl polysiloxane compounds and a mixture of fully methylatedlinear siloxane polymers end-blocked with trimethylsiloxy units,respectively. Other non-limiting volatile silicone oils that can be usedin the context of the present invention include those available fromGeneral Electric Co., Silicone Products Div., Waterford, N.Y. and SWSSilicones Div. of Stauffer Chemical Co., Adrian, Mich.

g. Essential Oils

Essential oils include oils derived from herbs, flowers, trees, andother plants. Such oils are typically present as tiny droplets betweenthe plant's cells, and can be extracted by several methods known tothose of skill in the art (e.g., steam distilled, enfleurage (i.e.,extraction by using fat), maceration, solvent extraction, or mechanicalpressing). When these types of oils are exposed to air they tend toevaporate (i.e., a volatile oil). As a result, many essential oils arecolorless, but with age they can oxidize and become darker. Essentialoils are insoluble in water and are soluble in alcohol, ether, fixedoils (vegetal), and other organic solvents. Typical physicalcharacteristics found in essential oils include boiling points that varyfrom about 160° to 240° C. and densities ranging from about 0.759 toabout 1.096.

Essential oils typically are named by the plant from which the oil isfound. For example, rose oil or peppermint oil are derived from rose orpeppermint plants, respectively. Non-limiting examples of essential oilsthat can be used in the context of the present invention include sesameoil, macadamia nut oil, tea tree oil, evening primrose oil, Spanish sageoil, Spanish rosemary oil, coriander oil, thyme oil, pimento berriesoil, rose oil, anise oil, balsam oil, bergamot oil, rosewood oil, cedaroil, chamomile oil, sage oil, clary sage oil, clove oil, cypress oil,eucalyptus oil, fennel oil, sea fennel oil, frankincense oil, geraniumoil, ginger oil, grapefruit oil, jasmine oil, juniper oil, lavender oil,lemon oil, lemongrass oil, lime oil, mandarin oil, marjoram oil, myrrhoil, neroli oil, orange oil, patchouli oil, pepper oil, black pepperoil, petitgrain oil, pine oil, rose otto oil, rosemary oil, sandalwoodoil, spearmint oil, spikenard oil, vetiver oil, wintergreen oil, orylang ylang. Other essential oils known to those of skill in the art arealso contemplated as being useful within the context of the presentinvention.

h. Thickening Agents

Thickening agents, including thickener or gelling agents, includesubstances which that can increase the viscosity of a composition.Thickeners includes those that can increase the viscosity of acomposition without substantially modifying the efficacy of the activeingredient within the composition. Thickeners can also increase thestability of the compositions of the present invention. In certainaspects of the present invention, thickeners include hydrogenatedpolyisobutene or trihydroxystearin, or a mixture of both.

Non-limiting examples of additional thickening agents that can be usedin the context of the present invention include carboxylic acidpolymers, crosslinked polyacrylate polymers, polyacrylamide polymers,polysaccharides, and gums. Examples of carboxylic acid polymers includecrosslinked compounds containing one or more monomers derived fromacrylic acid, substituted acrylic acids, and salts and esters of theseacrylic acids and the substituted acrylic acids, wherein thecrosslinking agent contains two or more carbon-carbon double bonds andis derived from a polyhydric alcohol (see U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,087,445;4,509,949; 2,798,053; CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary,Fourth edition, 1991, pp. 12 and 80). Examples of commercially availablecarboxylic acid polymers include carbomers, which are homopolymers ofacrylic acid crosslinked with allyl ethers of sucrose or pentaerytritol(e.g., Carbopol™ 900 series from B. F. Goodrich).

Non-limiting examples of crosslinked polyacrylate polymers includecationic and nonionic polymers. Examples are described in U.S. Pat. Nos.5,100,660; 4,849,484; 4,835,206; 4,628,078; and 4,599,379.

Non-limiting examples of polyacrylamide polymers (including nonionicpolyacrylamide polymers including substituted branched or unbranchedpolymers) include polyacrylamide, isoparaffin and laureth-7, multi-blockcopolymers of acrylamides and substituted acrylamides with acrylic acidsand substituted acrylic acids.

Non-limiting examples of polysaccharides include cellulose,carboxymethyl hydroxyethylcellulose, cellulose acetate propionatecarboxylate, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxyethyl ethylcellulose,hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, methylhydroxyethylcellulose, microcrystalline cellulose, sodium cellulosesulfate, and mixtures thereof Another example is an alkyl substitutedcellulose where the hydroxy groups of the cellulose polymer ishydroxyalkylated (preferably hydroxy ethylated or hydroxypropylated) toform a hydroxyalkylated cellulose which is then further modified with aC₁₀-C₃₀ straight chain or branched chain alkyl group through an etherlinkage. Typically these polymers are ethers of C₁₀-C₃₀ straight orbranched chain alcohols with hydroxyalkylcelluloses. Other usefulpolysaccharides include scleroglucans comprising a linear chain of (1-3)linked glucose units with a (1-6) linked glucose every three unit.

Non-limiting examples of gums that can be used with the presentinvention include acacia, agar, algin, alginic acid, ammonium alginate,amylopectin, calcium alginate, calcium carrageenan, carnitine,carrageenan, dextrin, gelatin, gellan gum, guar gum, guarhydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, hectorite, hyaluroinic acid, hydratedsilica, hydroxypropyl chitosan, hydroxypropyl guar, karaya gum, kelp,locust bean gum, natto gum, potassium alginate, potassium carrageenan,propylene glycol alginate, sclerotium gum, sodium carboyxmethyl dextran,sodium carrageenan, tragacanth gum, xanthan gum, and mixtures thereof.

i. Preservatives

Non-limiting examples of preservatives that can be used in the contextof the present invention include quaternary ammonium preservatives suchas polyquaternium-1 and benzalkonium halides (e.g., benzalkoniumchloride (“BAC”) and benzalkonium bromide), parabens (e.g.,methylparabens and propylparabens), phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol,chlorobutanol, phenol, sorbic acid, thimerosal or combinations thereof.

2. Pharmaceutical Ingredients

Pharmaceutical active agents are also contemplated as being useful withthe compositions of the present invention. Non-limiting examples ofpharmaceutical active agents include anti-acne agents, agents used totreat rosacea, analgesics, anesthetics, anorectals, antihistamines,anti-inflammatory agents including non-steroidal anti-inflammatorydrugs, antibiotics, antifungals, antivirals, antimicrobials, anti-canceractives, scabicides, pediculicides, antineoplastics, antiperspirants,antipruritics, antip soriatic agents, anti seborrheic agents,biologically active proteins and peptides, burn treatment agents,cauterizing agents, depigmenting agents, depilatories, diaper rashtreatment agents, enzymes, hair growth stimulants, hair growthretardants including DFMO and its salts and analogs, hemostatics,kerotolytics, canker sore treatment agents, cold sore treatment agents,dental and periodontal treatment agents, photosensitizing actives, skinprotectant/barrier agents, steroids including hormones andcorticosteroids, sunburn treatment agents, sunscreens, transdermalactives, nasal actives, vaginal actives, wart treatment agents, woundtreatment agents, wound healing agents, etc.

G. Kits

Kits are also contemplated as being used in certain aspects of thepresent invention. For instance, compositions of the present inventioncan be included in a kit. A kit can include a container. Containers caninclude a bottle, a metal tube, a laminate tube, a plastic tube, adispenser, a pressurized container, a barrier container, a package, acompartment, a lipstick container, a compact container, cosmetic pansthat can hold cosmetic compositions, or other types of containers suchas injection or blow-molded plastic containers into which thedispersions or compositions or desired bottles, dispensers, or packagesare retained. The kit and/or container can include indicia on itssurface. The indicia, for example, can be a word, a phrase, anabbreviation, a picture, or a symbol.

The containers can dispense a pre-determined amount of the composition.In other embodiments, the container can be squeezed (e.g., metal,laminate, or plastic tube) to dispense a desired amount of thecomposition. The composition can be dispensed as a spray, an aerosol, aliquid, a fluid, or a semi-solid. The containers can have spray, pump,or squeeze mechanisms. A kit can also include instructions for employingthe kit components as well the use of any other compositions included inthe container. Instructions can include an explanation of how to apply,use, and maintain the compositions.

EXAMPLES

The following examples are included to demonstrate certain non-limitingaspects of the invention. It should be appreciated by those of skill inthe art that the techniques disclosed in the examples which followrepresent techniques discovered by the inventor to function well in thepractice of the invention. However, those of skill in the art should, inlight of the present disclosure, appreciate that many changes can bemade in the specific embodiments which are disclosed and still obtain alike or similar result without departing from the spirit and scope ofthe invention.

Example 1 Dermatologically Acceptable Vehicle

A silicone-in-water formulation was prepared in which the combination ofornithine, retinol, Commiphora mukul resin, and sodium hyaluronate wasincorporated into. The formulation in Table 1 was found to be stable atroom temperature through visual inspection (no phase separation). Theformulation also had an opaque appearance prior to being applied to skinand had a translucent appearance after being applied to and dried on theskin within 180 seconds after application.

TABLE 1¹ % Concentration Ingredient (by weight) Water 35Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer 31 HDI/TrimethylolHexyllactone Crosspolymer 9.6 Butyrospermum parkii 7.5 Butylene glycol 5Glycerin 2 Cetearyl alcohol 2 C12-14 Pareth-12 1.5 Ornithine² 0.1Encapsulated retinol³ 0.07 Encapsulated Commiphora mukul resin and 0.06sodium hyaluronate⁴ Excipients⁵ q.s. ¹Formulation was prepared by mixingthe ingredients until a homogenous formulation was obtained. ²Ornithineobtained from Lucas Meyer Cosmetics (USA) under the trade nameAdipofill'in.

Example 2 In Vivo Objective and Subjective Data

The formulation in Table 1 was subjected to an eight-week in vivo study.The study period was preceded by a one week washout period. A panel offorty-five women used a product having the formulation in Table once inthe morning and once at night. Visual grading and instrumentalassessments were performed at each visit. The formulation in Table 1 ledto statistically significant qualitative improvement in the appearanceof crows' feet, nasolabial folds, forehead, glabellar region, marionetteregion, and peri-oral region immediately and after two, four and eightweeks. Further, statistically significant quantitative improvement intotal lines/wrinkles, wrinkle length, wrinkle width, and wrinkleseverity immediately and after eight weeks, and in skinroughness/texture after two, four weeks and eight weeks and the numberof shadow-producing features, including wrinkles, after eight weeks.

An additional 3-week independent consumer study with 228 women wasperformed. The women applied to the product morning and night towrinkles. 97% of the women said that the Table 1 formulation did notflake off 97% of the women said their makeup applied easily and evenlyover the Table 1 formulation. 96% of the women said the Table 1formulation dried to an “invisible finish, seeming to disappear.” 96% ofthe women said the Table 1 formulation did not ball up on skin. 95% ofthe women said that the Table 1 formulation dried quickly.

Example 3 In Vitro Data

Commiphora mukul resin was tested to determine its ability to stimulateadipogenesis in skin. A lipid accumulation assay was used in whichCommiphora mukul resin at a concentration of 0.1 and 0.01% wt. wasapplied to primary human subcutaneous preadipocytes in the absence of aPPAR gamma agonist to determine the ability of the resin to stimulateadipogenesis. The amount of lipid accumulation was measured by totaltriglyceride levels. Commiphora mukul resin was found to stimulateadipogenesis in the pre-adipocytes by 316% (see FIGS. 1 and 2—#60378 isCommiphora mukul resin from Soliance (France) under the trade nameRedens'In). Stimulation of adipogenesis can increase fat cells in theskin, thereby aiding in filling in wrinkles and improving the texture ofskin.

Example 4 Testing Vehicles and Assays

Tables 2 and 3 include formulations that can be used in the context ofthe present invention to test the ability of the active ingredients totreat wrinkles.

TABLE 2* Ingredient % Concentration (by weight) Phase A Water q.s. to100 Xanthum gum 0.1 M-paraben 0.15 P-paraben 0.1 Citric acid 0.01 PhaseB Cetyl alcohol 4.0 Glyceryl stearate + PEG 100 4.0 Octyl palmitate 4.0Dimethicone 1.0 Tocopheryl acetate 0.2 Phase C Active Ingredients** 1.0*Sprinkle Xanthum gum in water and mix for 10 min. Subsequently, add allingredients in phase A and heat to 70-75° C. Add all items in phase B toseparate beaker and heat to 70-75° C. Mix phases A and B at 70-75° C.Continue mixing and allow composition to cool to 30° C. Subsequently,add phase C ingredient while mixing. **Any of the active ingredients (orcombination thereof) described in the specification can be used. Forinstance, the active ingredients can include ornithine, retinol,Commiphora mukul resin, and hyaluronic acid. Although the total amountof active ingredients in the Table 1 formulation is 1% w/w, it iscontemplated that the amount of active ingredients can be increased ordecreased to achieve a desired result, where the water amount can beincreased/decreased accordingly (e.g., q.s.).

TABLE 3* Ingredient % Concentration (by weight) Phase A Water q.s. to100 M-paraben 0.2 P-paraben 0.1 Na2 EDTA 0.1 Shea butter 4.5 Petrolatum4.5 Glycerin 4.0 Propylene Glycol 2.0 Finsolve TN 2.0 Phase B Sepigel305 2.0 Phase C Active Ingredient(s)** 2.0 *Add ingredients in phase Ato beaker and heat to 70-75° C. while mixing. Subsequently, add thephase B ingredient with phase A and cool to 30° C. with mixing.Subsequently, add phase C ingredient while mixing. **Any of the activeingredients (or combination thereof) described in the specification canbe used. For instance, the active ingredients can include ornithine,retinol, Commiphora mukul resin, and hyaluronic acid. Although the totalamount of active ingredients in the Table 2 formulation is 2% w/w, it iscontemplated that the amount of active ingredients can be increased ordecreased to achieve a desired result, where the water amount can beincreased/decreased accordingly (e.g., q.s.).

The efficacy of the combination of ingredients disclosed throughout thespecification and claims can be determined by using the following assaysand by using the formulations described in Tables 1 to 3.

Appearance of Lines and Wrinkles Assay with Replicas:

The appearance of lines and wrinkles on the skin can be evaluated usingreplicas, which is the impression of the skin's surface. Silicone rubberlike material can be used. The replica can be analyzed by imageanalysis. Changes in the visibility of lines and wrinkles can beobjectively quantified via the taking of silicon replicas form thesubjects' face and analyzing the replicas image using a computer imageanalysis system. Replicas can be taken from the eye area and the neckarea, and photographed with a digital camera using a low angle incidencelighting. The digital images can be analyzed with an image processingprogram and the area of the replicas covered by wrinkles or fine lineswas determined.

Surface Contour of the Skin Assay with a Profilometer/Stylus Method:

The surface contour of the skin can be measured by using theprofilometer/Stylus method. This includes either shining a light ordragging a stylus across the replica surface. The vertical displacementof the stylus can be fed into a computer via a distance transducer, andafter scanning a fixed length of replica a cross-sectional analysis ofskin profile can be generated as a two-dimensional curve. This scan canbe repeated any number of times along a fix axis to generate a simulated3-D picture of the skin. Ten random sections of the replicas using thestylus technique can be obtained and combined to generate averagevalues. The values of interest include Ra which is the arithmetic meanof all roughness (height) values computed by integrating the profileheight relative to the mean profile height. Rt which is the maximumvertical distance between the highest peak and lowest trough, and Rzwhich is the mean peak amplitude minus the mean peak height. Values aregiven as a calibrated value in mm. Equipment should be standardizedprior to each use by scanning metal standards of know values. Ra Valuecan be computed by the following equation: R_(a)=Standardize roughness;l_(m)=the traverse (scan) length; and y=the absolute value of thelocation of the profile relative to the mean profile height (x-axis).

Erythema Assay:

An assay to measure the reduction of skin redness can be evaluated usinga Minolta Chromometer. Skin erythema may be induced by applying a 0.2%solution of sodium dodecyl sulfate on the forearm of a subject. The areais protected by an occlusive patch for 24 hrs. After 24 hrs, the patchis removed and the irritation-induced redness can be assessed using thea* values of the Minolta Chroma Meter. The a* value measures changes inskin color in the red region. Immediately after reading, the area istreated with a composition of the present invention. Repeat measurementsare taken at regular intervals to determine the formula's ability toreduce redness and irritation.

Skin Moisture/Hydration Assay:

Skin moisture/hydration benefits can be measured by using impedancemeasurements with the Nova Dermal Phase Meter. The impedance metermeasures changes in skin moisture content. The outer layer of the skinhas distinct electrical properties. When skin is dry it conductselectricity very poorly. As it becomes more hydrated increasingconductivity results. Consequently, changes in skin impedance (relatedto conductivity) can be used to assess changes in skin hydration. Theunit can be calibrated according to instrument instructions for eachtesting day. A notation of temperature and relative humidity can also bemade. Subjects can be evaluated as follows: prior to measurement theycan equilibrate in a room with defined humidity (e.g., 30-50%) andtemperature (e.g., 68-72° C.). Three separate impedance readings can betaken on each side of the face, recorded, and averaged. The T5 settingcan be used on the impedance meter which averages the impedance valuesof every five seconds application to the face. Changes can be reportedwith statistical variance and significance.

Skin Clarity and Reduction in Freckles and Age Spots Assay:

Skin clarity and the reduction in freckles and age spots can beevaluated using a Minolta Chromometer. Changes in skin color can beassessed to determine irritation potential due to product treatmentusing the a* values of the Minolta Chroma Meter. The a* value measureschanges in skin color in the red region. This is used to determinewhether a composition is inducing irritation. The measurements can bemade on each side of the face and averaged, as left and right facialvalues. Skin clarity can also be measured using the Minolta Meter. Themeasurement is a combination of the a*, b, and L values of the MinoltaMeter and is related to skin brightness, and correlates well with skinsmoothness and hydration. Skin reading is taken as above. In onenon-limiting aspect, skin clarity can be described as L/C where C ischroma and is defined as (a²+b²)^(1/2).

Skin Dryness, Surface Fine Lines, Skin Smoothness, and Skin Tone Assay:

Skin dryness, surface fine lines, skin smoothness, and skin tone can beevaluated with clinical grading techniques. For example, clinicalgrading of skin dryness can be determined by a five point standardKligman Scale: (0) skin is soft and moist; (1) skin appears normal withno visible dryness; (2) skin feels slightly dry to the touch with novisible flaking; (3) skin feels dry, tough, and has a whitish appearancewith some scaling; and (4) skin feels very dry, rough, and has a whitishappearance with scaling. Evaluations can be made independently by twoclinicians and averaged.

Clinical Grading of Skin Tone Assay:

Clinical grading of skin tone can be performed via a ten point analognumerical scale: (10) even skin of uniform, pinkish brown color. Nodark, erythremic, or scaly patches upon examination with a hand heldmagnifying lens. Microtexture of the skin very uniform upon touch; (7)even skin tone observed without magnification. No scaly areas, butslight discolorations either due to pigmentation or erythema. Nodiscolorations more than 1 cm in diameter; (4) both skin discolorationand uneven texture easily noticeable. Slight scaliness. Skin rough tothe touch in some areas; and (1) uneven skin coloration and texture.Numerous areas of scaliness and discoloration, either hypopigmented,erythremic or dark spots. Large areas of uneven color more than 1 cm indiameter. Evaluations were made independently by two clinicians andaveraged.

Clinical Grading of Skin Smoothness Assay:

Clinical grading of skin smoothness can be analyzed via a ten pointanalog numerical scale: (10) smooth, skin is moist and glistening, noresistance upon dragging finger across surface; (7) somewhat smooth,slight resistance; (4) rough, visibly altered, friction upon rubbing;and (1) rough, flaky, uneven surface. Evaluations were madeindependently by two clinicians and averaged.

Skin Smoothness and Wrinkle Reduction Assay with Methods Disclosed inPackman et al. (1978):

Skin smoothness and wrinkle reduction can also be assessed visually byusing the methods disclosed in Packman et al. (1978). For example, ateach subject visit, the depth, shallowness and the total number ofsuperficial facial lines (SFLs) of each subject can be carefully scoredand recorded. A numerical score was obtained by multiplying a numberfactor times a depth/width/length factor. Scores are obtained for theeye area and mouth area (left and right sides) and added together as thetotal wrinkle score.

Skin Firmness Assay with a Hargens Ballistometer:

Skin firmness can be measured using a Hargens ballistometer, a devicethat evaluates the elasticity and firmness of the skin by dropping asmall body onto the skin and recording its first two rebound peaks. Theballistometry is a small lightweight probe with a relatively blunt tip(4 square mm-contact area) was used. The probe penetrates slightly intothe skin and results in measurements that are dependent upon theproperties of the outer layers of the skin, including the stratumcorneum and outer epidermis and some of the dermal layers.

Skin Softness/Suppleness Assay with a Gas Bearing Electrodynamometer:

Skin softness/suppleness can be evaluated using the Gas BearingElectrodynamometer, an instrument that measures the stress/strainproperties of the skin. The viscoelastic properties of skin correlatewith skin moisturization. Measurements can be obtained on thepredetermined site on the cheek area by attaching the probe to the skinsurface with double-stick tape. A force of approximately 3.5 gm can beapplied parallel to the skin surface and the skin displacement isaccurately measured. Skin suppleness can then be calculated and isexpressed as DSR (Dynamic Spring Rate in gm/mm).

MELANODERM™ Assay:

In other non-limiting aspects, the efficacy of the compositions of thepresent invention can be evaluated by using a skin analog, such as, forexample, MELANODERM™. Melanocytes, one of the cells in the skin analog,stain positively when exposed to L-dihydroxyphenyl alanine (L-DOPA), aprecursor of melanin. The skin analog, MELANODERM™, can be treated witha variety of bases containing the compositions and whitening agents ofthe present invention or with the base alone as a control.Alternatively, an untreated sample of the skin analog can be used as acontrol.

ORAC Assay:

Oxygen Radical Absorption (or Absorbance) Capacity (ORAC) of thearomatic skin-active ingredients and compositions can also be assayed bymeasuring the antioxidant activity of such ingredients or compositions.This assay can quantify the degree and length of time it takes toinhibit the action of an oxidizing agent such as oxygen radicals thatare known to cause damage cells (e.g., skin cells). The ORAC value ofthe aromatic skin-active ingredients and compositions can be determinedby methods known to those of ordinary skill in the art (see U.S.Publication Nos. 2004/0109905 and 2005/0163880; Cao et al. (1993)), allof which are incorporated by reference). In summary, the assay describedin Cao et al. (1993) measures the ability of antioxidant compounds intest materials to inhibit the decline of B-phycoerythrm (B-PE)fluorescence that is induced by a peroxyl radical generator, AAPH.

Matrix Metalloproteinase Enzyme Activity (MMP3; MMP9) Assay:

An in vitro matrix metalloprotease (MMP) inhibition assay. MMPs areextracellular proteases that play a role in many normal and diseasestates by virtue of their broad substrate specificity. MMP3 substratesinclude collagens, fibronectins, and laminin; while MMP9 substratesinclude collagen VII, fibronectins and laminin. Using Colorimetric DrugDiscovery kits from BioMol International for MMP3 (AK-400) and MMP-9(AK-410), this assay is designed to measure protease activity of MMPsusing a thiopeptide as a chromogenic substrate(Ac-PLG-[2-mercapto-4-methyl-pentanoy]-LG-OC2H5)5,6. The MMP cleavagesite peptide bond is replaced by a thioester bond in the thiopeptide.Hydrolysis of this bond by an MMP produces a sulfhydryl group, whichreacts with DTNB [5,5′-dithiobis(2-nitrobenzoic acid), Ellman's reagent]to form 2-nitro-5-thiobenzoic acid, which can be detected by itsabsorbance at 412 nm (c=13,600 M-lcm-1 at pH 6.0 and above 7).

B16 Pigmentation Assay:

Melanogenesis is the process by which melanocytes produce melanin, anaturally produced pigment that imparts color to skin, hair, and eyes.Inhibiting melanogenesis is beneficial to prevent skin darkening andlighten dark spots associated with aging. This bioassay utilizes B16-F1melanocytes (ATCC), an immortalized mouse melanoma cell line, to analyzethe effect of compounds on melanogenesis. The endpoint of this assay isa spectrophotometric measurement of melanin production and cellularviability. B16-F1 melanocytes, can be cultivated in standard DMEM growthmedium with 10% fetal bovine serum (Mediatech) at 37° C. in 10% CO2 andthen treated with any one of the active ingredients, combination ofingredients, or compositions having said combinations disclosed in thespecification for 6 days. Following incubation, melanin secretion wasmeasured by absorbance at 405 nm and cellular viability was quantified.

Collagen Stimulation Assay:

Collagen is an extracellular matrix protein critical for skin structure.Increased synthesis of collagen helps improve skin firmness andelasticity. This bioassay can be used to examine the effect of any oneof the active ingredients, combination of ingredients, or compositionshaving said combinations disclosed in the specification on theproduction of procollagen peptide (a precursor to collagen) by humanepidermal fibroblasts. The endpoint of this assay is aspectrophotometric measurement that reflects the presence of procollagenpeptide and cellular viability. The assay employs the quantitativesandwich enzyme immunoassay technique whereby a monoclonal antibodyspecific for procollagen peptide has been pre-coated onto a microplate.Standards and samples can be pipetted into the wells and any procollagenpeptide present is bound by the immobilized antibody. After washing awayany unbound substances, an enzyme-linked polyclonal antibody specificfor procollagen peptide can be added to the wells. Following a wash toremove any unbound antibody-enzyme reagent, a substrate solution can beadded to the wells and color develops in proportion to the amount ofprocollagen peptide bound in the initial step using a microplate readerfor detection at 450 nm. The color development can be stopped and theintensity of the color can be measured. Subconfluent normal human adultepidermal fibroblasts (Cascade Biologics) cultivated in standard DMEMgrowth medium with 10% fetal bovine serum (Mediatech) at 37° C. in 10%CO2, can be treated with each of the combination of ingredients orcompositions having said combinations disclosed in the specification for3 days. Following incubation, cell culture medium can be collected andthe amount of procollagen peptide secretion quantified using a sandwichenzyme linked immuno-sorbant assay (ELISA) from Takara (# MK101).

Tumor Necrosis Factor Alpha (TNF-α) Assay:

The prototype ligand of the TNF superfamily, TNF-α, is a pleiotropiccytokine that plays a central role in inflammation. Increase in itsexpression is associated with an up regulation in pro-inflammatoryactivity. This bioassay can be used to analyze the effect of any one ofthe active ingredients, combination of ingredients, or compositionshaving said combinations disclosed in the specification on theproduction of TNF-α by human epidermal keratinocytes. The endpoint ofthis assay can be a spectrophotometric measurement that reflects thepresence of TNF-α and cellular viability. The assay employs thequantitative sandwich enzyme immunoassay technique whereby a monoclonalantibody specific for TNF-α has been pre-coated onto a microplate.Standards and samples can be pipetted into the wells and any TNF-αpresent is bound by the immobilized antibody. After washing away anyunbound substances, an enzyme-linked polyclonal antibody specific forTNF-α can be added to the wells. Following a wash to remove any unboundantibody-enzyme reagent, a substrate solution can be added to the wellsand color develops in proportion to the amount of TNF-α bound in theinitial step using a microplate reader for detection at 450 nm. Thecolor development can be stopped and the intensity of the color can bemeasured. Subconfluent normal human adult keratinocytes (CascadeBiologics) cultivated in EpiLife standard growth medium (CascadeBiologics) at 37° C. in 5% CO2, can be treated with phorbol 12-myristate13-acetate (PMA, 10 ng/ml, Sigma Chemical, # P1585-1MG) and any one ofthe active ingredients, combination of ingredients, or compositionshaving said combinations disclosed in the specification for 6 hours. PMAhas been shown to cause a dramatic increase in TNF-α secretion whichpeaks at 6 hours after treatment. Following incubation, cell culturemedium can be collected and the amount of TNF-a secretion quantifiedusing a sandwich enzyme linked immuno-sorbant assay (ELISA) from R&DSystems (# DTA00C).

Antioxidant (AO) Assay:

An in vitro bioassay that measures the total anti-oxidant capacity ofany one of the ingredients, combination of ingredients, or compositionshaving said combinations disclosed in the specification. The assayrelies on the ability of antioxidants in the sample to inhibit theoxidation of ABTS® (2,2′-azino-di-[3-ethylbenzthiazoline sulphonate]) toABTS®+ by metmyoglobin. The antioxidant system of living organismsincludes enzymes such as superoxide dismutase, catalase, and glutathioneperoxidase; macromolecules such as albumin, ceruloplasmin, and ferritin;and an array of small molecules, including ascorbic acid, α-tocopherol,β-carotene, reduced glutathione, uric acid, and bilirubin. The sum ofendogenous and food-derived antioxidants represents the totalantioxidant activity of the extracellular fluid. Cooperation of all thedifferent antioxidants provides greater protection against attack byreactive oxygen or nitrogen radicals, than any single compound alone.Thus, the overall antioxidant capacity may give more relevant biologicalinformation compared to that obtained by the measurement of individualcomponents, as it considers the cumulative effect of all antioxidantspresent in plasma and body fluids. The capacity of the antioxidants inthe sample to prevent ABTS oxidation is compared with that of Trolox, awater-soluble tocopherol analogue, and is quantified as molar Troloxequivalents. Anti-Oxidant capacity kit #709001 from Cayman Chemical (AnnArbor, Mich. USA) can be used as an in vitro bioassay to measure thetotal anti-oxidant capacity of each of any one of the activeingredients, combination of ingredients, or compositions having saidcombinations disclosed in the specification. The protocol can befollowed according to manufacturer recommendations. The assay relied onantioxidants in the sample to inhibit the oxidation of ABTS®(2,2′-azino-di-[3-ethylbenzthiazoline sulphonate]) to ABTS®+ bymetmyoglobin. The capacity of the antioxidants in the sample to preventABTS oxidation can be compared with that Trolox, a water-solubletocopherol analogue, and was quantified as a molar Trolox equivalent.

Mushroom Tyrosinase Activity Assay:

In mammalian cells, tyrosinase catalyzes two steps in the multi-stepbiosynthesis of melanin pigments from tyrosine (and from thepolymerization of dopachrome). Tyrosinase is localized in melanocytesand produces melanin (aromatic quinone compounds) that imparts color toskin, hair, and eyes. Purified mushroom tyrosinase (Sigma) can beincubated with its substrate L-Dopa (Fisher) in the presence or absenceof each of the active ingredients, any one of the combination ofingredients, or compositions having said combinations disclosed in thespecification. Pigment formation can be evaluated by colorimetric platereading at 490 nm. The percent inhibition of mushroom tyrosinaseactivity can be calculated compared to non-treated controls to determinethe ability of test ingredients or combinations thereof to inhibit theactivity of purified enzyme. Test ingredient inhibition can be comparedwith that of kojic acid (Sigma).

Cyclooxygenase (COX) Assay:

An in vitro cyclooxygenase-1 and -2 (COX-1, -2) inhibition assay. COX isa bifunctional enzyme exhibiting both cyclooxygenase and peroxidaseactivities. The cyclooxygenase activity converts arachidonic acid to ahydroperoxy endoperoxide (Prostaglandin G2; PGG2) and the peroxidasecomponent reduces the endoperoxide (Prostaglandin H2; PGH2) to thecorresponding alcohol, the precursor of prostaglandins, thromboxanes,and prostacyclins. This COX Inhibitor screening assay measures theperoxidase component of cyclooxygenases. The peroxidase activity isassayed colorimetrically by monitoring the appearance of oxidizedN,N,N′,N′-tetramethyl-p-phenylenediamine (TMPD). This inhibitorscreening assay includes both COX-1 and COX-2 enzymes in order to screenisozyme-specific inhibitors. The Colormetric COX (ovine) Inhibitorscreening assay (#760111, Cayman Chemical) can be used to analyze theeffects of each of the active ingredients, any one of the combination ofingredients, or compositions having said combinations disclosed in thespecification on the activity of purified cyclooxygnase enzyme (COX-1 orCOX-2). According to manufacturer instructions, purified enzyme, hemeand test ingredients can be mixed in assay buffer and incubated withshaking for 15 min at room temperature. Following incubation,arachidonic acid and colorimetric substrate can be added to initiate thereaction. Color progression can be evaluated by colorimetric platereading at 590 nm. The percent inhibition of COX-1 or COX-2 activity canbe calculated compared to non-treated controls to determine the abilityof test ingredients to inhibit the activity of purified enzyme.

Lipoxygenase (LO) Assay:

An in vitro lipoxygenase (LO) inhibition assay. LOs are non-hemeiron-containing dioxygenases that catalyze the addition of molecularoxygen to fatty acids. Linoleate and arachidonate are the mainsubstrates for LOs in plants and animals. Arachadonic acid may then beconverted to hydroxyeicosotrienenoic (HETE) acid derivatives, that aresubsequently converted to leukotirenes, potent inflammatory mediators.This assay provides an accurate and convenient method for screeninglipoxygenase inhibitors by measuring the hydroperoxides generated fromthe incubation of a lipoxygenase (5-, 12-, or 15-LO) with arachidonicacid. The Colorimetric LO Inhibitor screening kit (#760700, CaymanChemical) can be used to determine the ability of each of the activeingredients, any one of the combination of ingredients, or compositionshaving said combinations disclosed in the specification to inhibitenzyme activity. Purified 15-lipoxygenase and test ingredients can bemixed in assay buffer and incubated with shaking for 10 min at roomtemperature. Following incubation, arachidonic acid can be added toinitiate the reaction and mixtures incubated for an additional 10 min atroom temperature. Colorimetric substrate can be added to terminatecatalysis and color progression was evaluated by fluorescence platereading at 490 nm. The percent inhibition of lipoxyganse activity can becalculated compared to non-treated controls to determine the ability ofeach of the active ingredients, any one of the combination ofingredients, or compositions having said combinations disclosed in thespecification to inhibit the activity of purified enzyme.

Elastase Assay:

EnzChek® Elastase Assay (Kit # E-12056) from Molecular Probes (Eugene,Oreg. USA) can be used as an in vitro enzyme inhibition assay formeasuring inhibition of elastase activity for each of the activeingredients, any one of the combination of ingredients, or compositionshaving said combinations disclosed in the specification. The EnzChek kitcontains soluble bovine neck ligament elastin that can be labeled withdye such that the conjugate's fluorescence can be quenched. Thenon-fluorescent substrate can be digested by elastase or other proteasesto yield highly fluorescent fragments. The resulting increase influorescence can be monitored with a fluorescence microplate reader.Digestion products from the elastin substrate have absorption maxima at˜505 nm and fluorescence emission maxima at ˜515 nm. The peptide,chloromethyl ketone, can be used as a selective, collective inhibitor ofelastase when utilizing the EnzChek Elastase Assay Kit for screening forelastase inhibitors.

Oil Control Assay:

An assay to measure reduction of sebum secretion from sebaceous glandsand/or reduction of sebum production from sebaceous glands can beassayed by using standard techniques known to those having ordinaryskill in the art. In one instance, the forehead can be used. Each of theactive ingredients, any one of the combination of ingredients, orcompositions having said combinations disclosed in the specification canbe applied to one portion of the forehead once or twice daily for a setperiod of days (e.g., 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, ormore days), while another portion of the forehead is not treated withthe composition. After the set period of days expires, then sebumsecretion can be assayed by application of fine blotting paper to thetreated and untreated forehead skin. This is done by first removing anysebum from the treated and untreated areas with moist and dry cloths.Blotting paper can then be applied to the treated and untreated areas ofthe forehead, and an elastic band can be placed around the forehead togently press the blotting paper onto the skin. After 2 hours theblotting papers can be removed, allowed to dry and thentransilluminated. Darker blotting paper correlates with more sebumsecretion (or lighter blotting paper correlates with reduced sebumsecretion.

All of the skin-active ingredients, compositions, or methods disclosedand claimed in this specification can be made and executed without undueexperimentation in light of the present disclosure. While theskin-active ingredients, compositions, or methods of this invention havebeen described in terms of particular embodiments, it will be apparentto those of skill in the art that variations may be applied to theskin-active ingredients, compositions, or methods and in the steps or inthe sequence of steps of the method described herein without departingfrom the concept, spirit and scope of the invention.

1-18. (canceled)
 19. A method of increasing skin firmness or skinelasticity in a person's skin in need thereof, the method comprisingtopically applying to the skin a composition comprising an effectiveamount of Commiphora mukul resin or an extract thereof that includesoleo gum resin, wherein topical application of the composition to theskin in need thereof increases the skin firmness or elasticity.
 20. Themethod of claim 19, wherein the Commiphora mukul resin or the extractthereof that includes oleo gum resin is encapsulated.
 21. The method ofclaim 20, wherein the composition further comprises sodium hyaluronate.22. The method of claim 21, wherein the composition further comprises:water; caprylic/capric triglyceride; and glyceryl linoleate.
 23. Themethod of claim 21, wherein the composition further comprises:tocopherol or tocopherol acetate; citric acid; and phenoxyethanol. 24.The method of claim 19, wherein the composition does not includehyaluronic acid nor salt forms thereof.
 25. The method of claim 24,wherein the composition further includes caprylic/capric triglyceride.26. The method of claim 19, wherein the skin in need thereof is locatedin the periorbital region of the person's face.
 27. The method of claim19, wherein the skin in need thereof is located in the person's facialskin.
 28. The method of claim 19, wherein the skin in need thereof islocated in the person's hand skin.
 29. The method of claim 19, whereinthe skin in need thereof is located in the person's neck skin.
 30. Themethod of claim 19, wherein the skin in need thereof has uneven skintexture.
 31. The method of claim 19, wherein the composition is anemulsion.
 32. The method of claim 31, wherein the emulsion is anoil-in-water emulsion or a silicone-in-water emulsion.
 33. The method ofclaim 19, wherein the composition is a cream or lotion.
 34. The methodof claim 19, wherein the composition comprises 0.001 wt. % to 10 wt. %of the Commiphora mukul resin or the extract thereof that includes oleogum resin.
 35. The method of claim 19, wherein the composition furthercomprises: 30 to 40% wt. of water; 25 to 35% wt. of dimethicone/vinyldimethicone crosspolymer; 5 to 15% wt. of an anti-caking agent or acombination of anti-caking agents; 10 to 20% wt. of a moisturizing agentor a combination of moisturizing agents; and 1 to 10% wt. of asurfactant or a combination of surfactants.